Bulbs, Seeds & Storage: October Harvest and Planning Tasks

The last baskets of squash are stacked, the air smells faintly of earth and rain, and half-forgotten bulb packets stare at you from the shed shelf.

October has that deceptive calm — harvest behind you, winter ahead — yet this is when quiet action shapes next year’s garden.

Now’s the time to plant bulbs before the soil cools, gather and dry seeds while they’re still viable, and tuck cured roots and squash into cool corners. Label, store, and plan — these simple rituals keep chaos from creeping into spring.

Here on our Portuguese homestead, we treat October like the gardener’s reset button. It’s where gratitude meets preparation, and every labelled jar of seeds or crate of onions feels like insurance against next year’s surprises.

Ready to turn this in-between month into a foundation for resilience? Scroll down to Herman’s Tough Kraut Fixes at the end for real-world troubleshooting and quick answers before you stash, stack, or sow.

A lived-in greenhouse at the start of October — a reminder that resilience grows even in imperfect seasons.

Whether you’re planting bulbs, drying seeds, or stacking squash, these October Harvest and Planning Tasks set the rhythm for every resilient garden to come.

The Rhythm Behind October Harvest and Planning Tasks

In Mediterranean climates like ours here in Central Portugal (Zone 8a), October isn’t a full stop to the season — it’s a turning point. The soil still holds the last warmth of summer, daylight fades just enough to slow growth, and the first autumn rains soften the ground again. It’s a short but golden window when nature invites us to plan ahead rather than power down.

We’re still learning to work with that rhythm. This year, the veggie terrace and greenhouse didn’t get the full attention they deserved — renovation on our granite stone house stole more daylight hours than we’d like to admit. But that’s part of the journey. Progress in one area often means patience in another, and each season teaches where the balance lies.

Soil temperature and timing

Planting bulbs now gives them the root time they need before the soil cools below 10 °C (50 °F). Once it does, growth slows to a crawl. When we first started, we learned the hard way that waiting until November often meant bulbs sprouted late or not at all. Getting them in early October has become a quiet victory each year.

Seed saving and genetic memory

Collecting and labeling seeds from plants that handled our dry summers best feels like bottling experience. Even if we didn’t grow much this year, the few survivors — kale, basil, and some stubborn beans — earned a place in our seed jars. Those seeds remember what worked, and next season, we’ll give them another shot.

Curing roots and storing energy

Root vegetables and squash need a few weeks of curing in warm, dry air before storage. It’s their way of building a skin thick enough for winter. We still experiment with storage spots — under the porch, in the greenhouse, or near the mobile home — seeing which stays dry but not freezing. Some batches keep beautifully, others not so much, but each one teaches something.

Planning ahead

October planning keeps next year from sneaking up on you. A quick seed inventory, a few labels, and some notes about what worked (and what didn’t) turn chaos into direction. Our system is far from perfect, but even small organization wins make spring planting smoother.

Each season on this land has been a blend of success and oversight — but that’s how resilience grows. Bit by bit, with every labeled jar and every bulb tucked into the soil, we’re learning to sync with the Mediterranean rhythm instead of rushing against it — the real essence of our October Harvest and Planning Tasks.

Planting Spring-Flowering Bulbs: Setting Roots Before the Chill

There’s something quietly satisfying about planting bulbs in October. It feels a bit like hiding treasure — trusting that somewhere beneath the surface, life is quietly organizing itself for spring. But timing is everything. Bulbs need a few weeks of mild soil to form roots before winter slows them down.

On our land, that means getting them in before the soil temperature drops below roughly 10 °C (50 °F). Any later, and roots struggle to establish before the first cold nights roll in. In our first season, we waited too long — the result was patchy growth and a few bulbs that simply disappeared into the soil. Lesson learned.

Depth and drainage matter.

Plant bulbs about two to three times their height deep in well-draining soil. If your soil tends to hold water, mix in a handful of sand or fine gravel. Soggy bulbs quickly turn to mush. A thin mulch of straw or dry leaves keeps moisture steady without trapping too much humidity.

Choose your players wisely.

In Mediterranean Zone 8a, go for varieties that tolerate mild, wet winters and short cold snaps — daffodils (Narcissus spp.), tulips (Tulipa spp.), hyacinths, or freesias. Many gardeners here also plant alliums or even edible bulbs like garlic and shallots in the same season, making every square meter work double-duty.

Containers count too.

If your garden beds are full or you’re short on space, plant bulbs in deep pots or crates. We often use leftover roof tile boxes from our house renovation — they drain beautifully and give us one more way to reuse construction materials.

Tough Tip: Mark where you planted. A small bamboo stick, stone, or label saves you from digging into bulbs accidentally when winter weeds start to sprout. (Ask us how we know.)

Even if your year felt rushed or imperfect — ours certainly did — getting those bulbs in before the chill feels like reclaiming momentum. It’s a promise to your future garden that beauty (and a little color therapy) will return just when you need it most.

Collecting and Drying Seeds: Preserving Your Garden’s Story

Seed saving is a bit like storytelling. Each seed carries a record of the season — the heat, the wind, the irrigation mishaps, and the quiet successes that made it through. Collecting them in October gives you the power to keep that story going, one generation at a time.

We’re still refining our rhythm. Some years, our seed jars look like a victory parade. Other years, the labels read like a comedy of errors: “Mystery beans, terrace bed — maybe purple?” But even small attempts add up. The more you observe and record, the more resilient your garden becomes.

Step 1: Pick your keepers.

Save seeds from plants that performed best — the ones that tolerated dry spells, shrugged off pests, or thrived with minimal fuss. For us, that often means hardy Mediterranean types: basil, beans, coriander, kale, and arugula. Avoid saving from weak or diseased plants, no matter how tempting it is to keep “just in case.”

Step 2: Dry slowly, not hot.

Spread seeds on a paper towel, mesh tray, or fine sieve in a dry, shaded area with good airflow. Too much sun or heat can cook their viability right out. The goal is gentle dehydration — around 20–25 °C (68–77 °F) for a week or two, depending on humidity. We sometimes set ours on top of the fridge or near the solar inverter shed, where warmth is steady but not scorching.

Homegrown seeds drying gently on a bamboo rack — preserving flavor and resilience for next season.

Step 3: Test dryness.

When seeds snap instead of bend, they’re ready. If you’re unsure, put a few in a glass jar for a day — if condensation forms, they need more time.

Step 4: Label everything.

Future-you will thank present-you for this one. Write the species, variety, and date, plus a quick note about where it grew best. We’ve learned the hard way that “tomato – terrace” means nothing six months later. A permanent marker or pencil on paper packets works fine. Keep them in a cool, dry, dark spot — not the greenhouse.

Tough Tip: Don’t aim for perfection — aim for practice. Every saved seed is one step closer to independence. Even a handful of homegrown basil or lettuce seeds teaches more than any article or seed catalogue ever could.

Saving seeds isn’t just about thrift; it’s about connection. It turns gardening from a seasonal act into a continuous loop — one that remembers your land, your climate, and your effort. Whether your seed stash is a full cabinet or a single jar, you’re participating in one of the oldest, most empowering habits of self-reliance there is.

Curing and Storing Root Vegetables and Winter Squash

October isn’t just about planting and planning — it’s also about putting away what you’ve already grown. Whether it’s a few baskets of onions, a row of carrots, or a handful of pumpkins that made it through the heat, how you handle them now determines how long they’ll last.

We’re still perfecting this stage ourselves. Some years, our stored squash lasts until spring. Other times, we discover a mushy surprise halfway through December. But every batch teaches what works — and what not to repeat.

Curing: The Art of Toughening Up

Curing helps root vegetables and winter squash build a protective layer before storage. It’s their version of hardening off for winter.

Lay them out in a single layer somewhere warm (around 25 °C / 77 °F) with decent airflow for 7–14 days. A shaded porch, greenhouse bench, or even the mobile home’s entryway works fine. Avoid direct sun, which can cause uneven drying or scorching.

For onions and garlic, curing continues until the outer skins feel papery and the necks completely dry.

For pumpkins and squash, the skin should harden so that pressing your fingernail leaves no mark.

Birdhouse gourds drying in autumn air — an off-grid example of low-tech curing after harvest.

Storage: Cool, Dry, and Simple

Once cured, move everything to a cool, dark, ventilated area — ideally around 7–13 °C (45–55 °F). We’ve tried all sorts of setups: under the mobile home, in the shipping container, and even in cardboard boxes tucked behind renovation tools.The key lessons?

• Keep air moving.

• Don’t pile things too high.

• Check regularly — one bad squash can spoil a dozen.

DIY Storage Hacks

If you don’t have a root cellar, improvise. Old fruit crates, stackable mesh baskets, or even a shaded cupboard near a north-facing wall can do the trick. Line containers with newspaper to absorb moisture. We’ve seen people bury kegs or pre-galvanized metal trash cans with lids in the ground to create natural, temperature-stable mini-root cellars. It’s a clever low-cost method if you’re off-grid or short on space. The soil’s insulation keeps temperatures steady and humidity manageable — nature’s own cold storage system.

Tough Tip: Store different crops separately. Potatoes give off moisture and gases that shorten the shelf life of onions and squash. We learned that after one particularly fragrant winter box.

Curing and storing might feel like an afterthought, especially during busy renovation days, but it’s really an extension of harvest. When done right, it stretches your homegrown food into the quiet months and rewards you with a taste of summer on a cold January evening.

Even a modest stash — a few onions here, a couple of cured pumpkins there — feels like a small victory in the bigger picture of self-sufficiency. Every bite reminds you that resilience often starts in storage, not in the soil.

Labeling and Organizing Stored Seeds for Next Season

A messy seed collection can feel like gardening déjà vu — you know you saved something, somewhere, but the labels faded, or the paper packets became mouse confetti. October is the perfect time to bring order to the chaos while memories of what thrived (and what didn’t) are still fresh.

We’re still building our own system — one box, one jar, and one label at a time. It doesn’t have to be perfect; it just has to make sense next spring when you’re holding a handful of “mystery seeds” and wondering what they were.

Step 1: Gather and Sort

Lay everything out on a table or tray. Group seeds by type — vegetables, herbs, flowers, and perennials. Remove any unlabelled packets or those with visible mold. This first sort often reveals duplicates or old packets you can combine.

Step 2: Label Clearly and Consistently

Every packet should have:

• Plant name and variety (e.g., Kale – Lacinato)

• Harvest date

• Notes (where it grew best, or how it handled drought/pests)

We’ve learned to keep it low-tech: plain paper envelopes, masking tape, and a soft pencil. Ink can blur in humidity, but pencil lasts.

Step 3: Choose the Right Storage Method

Cool, dry, and dark are your allies. Airtight glass jars or upcycled tins work great, especially if you add a small silica gel packet or rice bag for moisture control. For small quantities, recycled spice jars or test tubes can turn your seed box into a mini library.

Step 4: Keep an Inventory

A simple notebook, spreadsheet, or even photos of your seed packets can save time later. We often snap pictures of our envelopes before packing them away — a small digital backup against damp corners or curious mice.

Tough Tip: Don’t stash seeds near tools, chemicals, or stored produce. Fluctuating humidity and gases from vegetables like onions or potatoes can shorten seed life. A small dedicated drawer or metal box is all it takes to extend viability for years.

Taking a few hours in October to label and organize isn’t busywork — it’s investment. It turns a random pile of packets into a living record of your land’s progress, ready to grow again when the next planting season begins.

Turning October Habits into Next Year’s Harvest

October feels like a pause — a breath between the rush of harvest and the stillness of winter — but it’s really where next season begins. Each bulb tucked into soil, each seed carefully dried and labeled, and each crate of stored roots carries the lessons of this year into the next.

Our rhythm here on the land is far from perfect. Some bulbs go in late, some squash go soft before Christmas, and a few seed packets still hide in coat pockets. But that’s part of the story — learning, adjusting, and laughing along the way. Resilience grows quietly, through small, consistent habits and the humility to try again.

So as the evenings cool and the first rains return, take an hour to tidy, label, or plan ahead. These modest October tasks are the groundwork for next spring’s abundance — the invisible roots of future harvests.

Ready to grow alongside us?

Join the Kraut Crew, our community of growers, learners, and experimenters turning small wins into long-term resilience. You’ll get early access to resources, field-tested guides, and seasonal updates straight from our Portuguese homestead.

Together, we’re not chasing perfection — we’re building confidence, one bulb, one seed, and one season at a time.

Preparing a syntropic tree line — another October act of planning for long-term abundance.

Herman’s Tough Kraut Fixes: October Harvest & Storage Troubleshooting FAQ

Even the best October planning can meet a few bumps — from soggy seeds to spoiled squash. Here’s a quick Troubleshooting + FAQ for common issues during bulb planting, seed saving, and storage season, straight from lessons we’ve learned (sometimes the hard way).

Q: My stored squash keeps molding after a few weeks — what went wrong?

A: Mold usually means curing was rushed or airflow was poor. Cure squash for at least 10–14 days in a warm, dry spot (around 25 °C / 77 °F) before storing. Wipe any surface mold with diluted vinegar and increase ventilation. Avoid sealing containers — squash needs to breathe.

Q: Some of my bulbs started sprouting in storage before I could plant them. Can I still use them?

A: Yes, but get them in the ground as soon as possible. Early sprouting happens when bulbs sit too warm or too moist. If they’ve sprouted but are still firm, plant at normal depth and mulch lightly. Discard any soft or moldy ones — they won’t recover.

Q: My dried seeds went moldy inside their jars. How do I prevent that?

A: They weren’t fully dry. Seeds should snap when bent, not flex. Next time, leave them to air-dry longer before sealing. Add a silica gel packet, rice grains, or powdered milk in tissue as a natural desiccant. Store jars in a cool, dark, stable environment — not in sheds that swing between hot and cold.

Q: My root vegetables shriveled in storage. How can I keep them fresh longer?

A: They’re losing moisture. Store roots in slightly damp sand, sawdust, or coco coir inside a wooden crate. Check occasionally and remove any soft ones immediately. For off-grid setups, consider partially burying a metal trash can or sealed keg in the ground — the soil keeps temperature and humidity steady.

Q: I can’t remember which seeds are which — labels faded. Any way to tell?

A: For now, grow them out and label early next season. To avoid repeats, write with pencil (it lasts longer than ink in humidity), or burn or emboss labels for outdoor use. Even a bit of painter’s tape inside glass jars lasts years without smudging.

Recommended Books & Resources

Books

• Seed to Seed by Suzanne Ashworth (2nd ed.)

  The classic, practical manual for saving seeds from 160+ vegetables. Clear crop-by-crop techniques, isolation distances, and viability tips that make home seed lines reliable.

• The Seed Garden by Seed Savers Exchange

  A modern, photo-rich reference that pairs solid botany with step-by-step methods. Great for planning which plants to let run to seed this month and how to dry, clean, and store them well.

• Root Cellaring by Mike & Nancy Bubel

  The go-to guide for low-energy storage of roots and squash. Covers temps, humidity, airflow, and layout ideas for improvised cellars so your cured harvest lasts into spring.

• The Kew Gardener’s Guide to Growing Bulbs by Richard Wilford

  Elegant but practical. Depths, timings, and 60+ bulb profiles, plus project ideas perfect for Mediterranean Zone 8a containers and beds.

Resources

• IRIS 4×6 Photo & Craft Keeper (seed organizer hack)

  Sixteen mini cases inside one box. Perfect for separating varieties, adding labels, and keeping silica packets with each seed lot. A tidy, portable “seed library” that actually stays organized.

• Eva-Dry E-333 renewable mini dehumidifier

  A rechargeable desiccant block for your seed cabinet or storage bin. Keeps humidity low without electricity for weeks, then recharges. Ideal for protecting viability through damp spells.

• Gamma Seal Lids for 3.5–7 Gallon (13–26 L) Buckets

  Snap-on rings with screw-top lids that turn standard food-grade buckets into airtight, rodent-resistant containers. Great for long-term seed envelopes, drying materials, or cured onions.

• Tough Kraut Resources

  Our living library of field-tested tools, trusted books, and off-grid gear we use to store harvests, save seeds, and build resilience season after season.