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Citrus sinensis ‘Navelina’ (Orange)

Updated: Jul 31

Common Name: Navelina Navel Orange

Scientific Name: Citrus sinensis ‘Navelina’

Plant Family: Rutaceae

Lifecycle: Perennial


A sun-loving, sweet-skinned orange cultivar bred in Spain, Navelina excels at producing seedless, juicy fruit in our Mediterranean climate. Ideal for fresh eating or juicing, it also supports pollinators and adds evergreen structure to a homestead orchard.


For in-depth guides and curated tools, be sure to check out our Recommended Books & Resources below.


Plant Profile

Characteristic

Information

Climate Suitability

USDA Zones 8–11; Köppen Csa (hot-dry summers, mild winters)

Sun / Shade Needs

Full sun (≥6 hours direct sunlight daily)

Watering Needs

Moderate; deep soak once weekly, adjust in heatwaves

Soil Preferences

Well-drained sandy-loam, pH 6.0–7.0

Spacing & Height

4.5–6 m (15–20 ft) apart; 3–4 m (10–13 ft) mature height

Propagation Method(s)

Bud grafting onto trifoliate or sour orange rootstock

Planting Timeline

Spring, after last frost risk

Companion Plants

Basil, marigold, comfrey, legumes (fix nitrogen)

Edible / Medicinal / Ecological Uses

Fresh fruit, juice; high in vitamin C; attracts bees

Pest / Disease Considerations

Watch for scale, aphids, leaf miner, greening; good airflow

Pruning / Harvest Notes

Remove rootstock suckers; harvest December–February by twist

Quick Plant Reference

  • Care Level: Moderate

  • Optimal Sunlight: Full sun

  • Water Needs: Moderate, deep weekly watering

  • Mature Size: 3–4 m (10–13 ft) tall & spread

  • Soil Type: Well-drained sandy-loam

  • Humidity: Medium

  • Toxicity: Non-toxic; peel and leaves safe in compost

  • Beneficial Pollinators: Honeybees, native bees, hoverflies

  • Health Benefits: Rich in vitamin C, flavonoids, antioxidants

  • Chilling Hours: ~200–300 hours below 7 °C (45 °F)

  • Pollination Requirements: Self-fertile, but bees improve yield


Our Citrus sinensis ‘Navelina’ Application @ Tough Kraut

We planted our Navelina along the east fence line—one of the hottest spots on our land. To protect the young graft from midday sunburn, we used wooden pallets for the first summer, and grass and pine cone mulch for moisture retention. The tree is watered by hand or our pulse sprinkler.


Step-by-Step Growing Guide

1. Choose the Right Site

Select a southern- or eastern-facing spot with at least six hours of direct sun and good air circulation to minimize disease.

2. Prepare the Soil

Amend native soil with well-rotted compost and coarse sand or pumice to improve drainage; test pH and adjust to 6.0–7.0.

3. Plant the Tree/Plant

Dig a hole twice the rootball width, set the graft union 5 cm (2 in) above soil, backfill gently, and water in.

4. Water Consistently

Deep-soak the root zone once per week, increasing frequency during prolonged heat; avoid overhead watering to reduce leaf wetness.

5. Ensure Proper Pollination

Although self-fertile, ensure plenty of pollinator-friendly flowers nearby and avoid insecticides during bloom.

6. Prune Annually

In late winter, remove dead or crossing branches, suckers below the graft, and open the canopy for light penetration.

7. Manage Pests and Diseases

Scout monthly for scale, aphids, and leaf miner; apply horticultural oil or insecticidal soap as needed, and maintain good sanitation.

8. Harvest and Store

Harvest when the rind turns bright orange and fruit feels heavy—typically December through February; store at 4–8 °C (39–46 °F) for up to two weeks.

9. Note

Keep an eye out for sunburn (bleached patches) on the southwest side; consider temporary shade or reflective mulch to help.


Kraut Crew Insight

We’ve noticed that mulching with local pine cones not only conserves moisture but also giving our Navelina additional neighbors, growing from the pine cones.


Photos


Herman’s Tough Kraut Field Notes: Solving Navelina Orange Cultivation Challenges

In this troubleshooting and FAQ section, we address common questions around growing Citrus Sinensis 'Navelina' in Mediterranean climates. Whether you’re dealing with leaf-curl, uneven fruit set, or sunscald, these solutions come straight from our hands-on experience.


Q: Sunburn scored my young bark. How to fix?

A: Paint trunks with a 50:50 mix of water and white interior latex paint, or use removable tree-wrap for the first two summers.

Q: Frost surprised me. Tips to protect blooms?

A: Drape frost cloth before sunset on forecasted frosts, and install a motion-activated heater or fan to circulate air in small groves.

Q: Why are my leaves yellowing between the veins?

A: Iron chlorosis in alkaline soils is common. Apply a foliar spray of chelated iron every 4–6 weeks in spring, and amend soil with sulfur or acidifying compost.

Q: My fruit set is low. What's going on?

A: Navelinas can abort excess fruit under stress. Improve pollinator habitat with flowering groundcovers and ensure consistent moisture during bloom.

Q: How do I prevent scale buildup on branches?

A: Introduce ladybugs or lacewings, and treat overwintering scale with dormant-season horticultural oil at 2% concentration on dry days above 10 °C (50 °F).


Recommended Books & Resources

Books

Resources

  • Tough Kraut Resources

    Tools, organic sprays, and grafting essentials we’ve actually used to support our homestead fruit trees.


Entry last updated: 2025-07-31


This post is part of the Tough Kraut Plant Library, documenting what really grows on our off-grid homestead in Central Portugal.

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