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Hardwood Cuttings in Winter: The Lazy Permaculturist’s Way to Clone Your Orchard

Winter looks like nothing is happening. Beds are empty. Leaves are gone. Growth has slowed to a standstill. Most gardeners pack up, wait, and scroll seed catalogs.


That’s the illusion.


Yard with a fig tree losing its leaves, surrounded by plastic pots, gardening supplies, and scattered materials.
Winter pruning in action. Fresh fig hardwood cuttings go straight from the tree into pots, low effort, no special setup.

Because while the garden sleeps, the orchard is ready to multiply. Every winter pruning hides an opportunity. Those bare sticks in your hand are not waste. They are dormant clones, already carrying next season’s potential. This is the quiet season where lazy permaculture shines. No rush. No gadgets. No constant attention.


Sometimes it really is as simple as:

stick a stick in dirt, get a bush.


Stick around until the end for Herman’s Tough Kraut Fixes, where we troubleshoot common failures, answer the most frequent questions, and turn winter prunings into future harvests.


Why Hardwood Cuttings in Winter Work So Well

Hardwood cuttings propagation only works during one narrow window. Dormancy. When deciduous plants drop their leaves, energy retreats into the wood and roots.


Sap flow slows. Growth pauses. The plant shifts from expansion to survival. That dormant state is exactly what makes hardwood cuttings in winter so reliable.


During this period, cuttings:


  • lose far less moisture

  • resist rot better than soft growth

  • prioritize root formation once warmth returns


Herman Kraut's hand holding a fig cutting with visible leaf buds and willow water rooting hormone applied to the base.
A single fig hardwood cutting. Dormant wood, visible buds, and stored energy ready to push roots when spring arrives.

Try to propagate hardwood cuttings in spring or summer and most fail. Leaves transpire. Heat stresses the stem. The cutting dries out before roots can form.


In winter, nothing rushes. The cutting waits. When conditions improve, roots come first.


That’s why winter is the easiest, lowest-effort time to propagate hardwood cuttings.


Best Plants to Propagate with Hardwood Cuttings in Winter

Not all plants are equal. Some almost feel unfair.

If you want early success, start with species that want to root.


Elderberry

Thick, vigorous stems. Fast rooting. Ideal for hedges, food forests, and wildlife support. Elderberry is one of the most forgiving hardwood cuttings for winter propagation.


Currants and Gooseberries

Compact shrubs with reliable rooting. Excellent candidates for pot propagation when space is limited.


Fig

Almost legendary for its ease. Fig trees propagate readily from hardwood cuttings, whether in pots or directly in the soil. Even neglected cuttings often survive.


Willow

The definition of lazy propagation. Willows root so aggressively they’re often used to help other plants root. Perfect for living fences, erosion control, and wet zones.

If this is your first attempt, fig or elderberry are hard to beat. Early success builds confidence.


Two Lazy Ways to Propagate Hardwood Cuttings in Winter

Both methods work. They just serve different goals.


Pots: Higher Survival, Slightly More Attention

This is the controlled option.


Cuttings are placed in pots and kept close to the parent plant. On our land, fig cuttings in pots sit right around the fig tree they came from.


Four potted fig hardwood cuttings with small buds and grassy growth at the base, placed near a fig tree trunk.
Potted fig cuttings waking up. Keeping cuttings together in pots makes monitoring and watering easy and boosts survival rates.

Why pots work so well:


  • all cuttings are in one place

  • easy to monitor

  • watering is possible when needed

  • survival rates are noticeably higher


From experience, potted hardwood cuttings consistently outperform direct planting, especially through hot, dry Mediterranean summers.


If you want maximum survival with minimal effort, pots are the reliable choice.


Direct Planting: Lower Survival, Maximum Laziness

This is true lazy permaculture.


Hardwood cuttings are pushed straight into the soil in winter, right where you eventually want the plant to grow. No pots. No watering. No follow-up.


Reality check:


  • survival rates may drop to 20–30%

  • summer drought is the main killer

  • losses are normal


But here’s the trade-off:

no time invested after planting.


Quantity replaces care. Plant many cuttings and let conditions decide which ones stay. The survivors are often tougher, deeper-rooted, and better adapted to your land. This isn’t failure. It’s selection pressure.


Gardena ErgoLine garden fork inserted in grassy soil with freshly cut willow branches laid beside it.
Direct planting, Tough Kraut style. Willow cuttings pushed straight into the soil with minimal tools and zero pampering.

Tough Tip: If you’re planting hardwood cuttings directly into the ground, don’t baby them. Increase your odds by planting far more cuttings than you need. Expect losses, especially through summer drought. The ones that survive without watering are usually the most resilient and best adapted to your land long-term.


The Only Tools You Actually Need

This is not zero-tool gardening, but it’s close.


You need exactly one thing that matters:


  • sharp pruning shears


Optional but helpful:


  • reused pots or containers

  • free-draining soil

  • a sheltered outdoor spot

  • Gardena ErgoLine garden fork


Why we use it:

A sturdy digging fork with four tines that makes it easy to loosen soil and create planting holes for hardwood cuttings without compacting the ground. Especially useful when pushing cuttings straight into the soil, gentle on your back, precise enough for lazy winter work.


No greenhouse. No heat mats. No rooting hormone required for fig, willow, elderberry, or currants.


If a cutting fails, nothing dramatic happens. It simply dries out or disappears quietly. No harm done.


How to Take Hardwood Cuttings in Winter (Step-by-Step)

  1. Take pencil-thick cuttings, 20–30 cm long

  2. Cut just below a node at the bottom

  3. Keep the top cut straight, bottom cut angled

  4. Push at least half the cutting into soil

  5. Place pots outdoors in a sheltered spot

  6. Ignore them until spring


That’s not oversimplification. That’s experience.


Roots come first. Shoots follow when they’re ready.


Herman Kraut's hand holding a bundle of dormant woody cuttings in a dry grassy field with a greenhouse in the background.
Step-by-step in the real world. Pussy willow hardwood cuttings planted during winter dormancy, simple cuts, correct orientation, and straight into the soil.

Tough Tip: When taking multiple hardwood cuttings, make a straight cut on the top and an angled cut on the bottom every time. After a few minutes, it’s easy to forget which end is which. Planting a cutting upside down is a surprisingly common reason for failure.


Why This Is Peak Lazy Permaculture

Propagating hardwood cuttings in winter stacks functions quietly and efficiently.


  • pruning waste becomes planting material

  • proven genetics are preserved

  • no infrastructure is required

  • patience replaces effort


It also breaks nursery dependency.


Every fig, currant, or elderberry you propagate is one less plant you need to buy, transport, and nurse through transplant shock.


More importantly, hardwood cuttings accelerate maturity. You’re not starting from seed. You’re cloning a plant that already knows how to fruit, survive drought, and handle your soil.


This is slow gardening. And slow gardening builds systems that last.


Close-up of green serrated elderberry leaves sprouting from the base of a woody stem in a grassy environment.
Proof it worked. Elderberry hardwood cuttings breaking dormancy and sending out fresh growth after winter propagation.

Winter Is Not Downtime

Hardwood cuttings in winter aren’t flashy. They don’t sell products. They don’t demand constant attention. They work because they respect timing.


Winter isn’t a pause in the system. It’s a preparation phase. A moment where energy moves underground, patience pays off, and small actions compound quietly.


Whether you choose pots for higher survival or direct planting for resilience through neglect, the principle stays the same. Use what the land gives you. Accept losses. Let survivors teach you what belongs.


Over time, this approach changes how you garden. You stop chasing perfection and start building momentum. Less buying. Less fussing. More adaptation. Prune with intention. Plant with patience. Let time do the work.


If this way of thinking resonates with you, consider joining the Kraut Crew, where we share real-world experiments, quiet failures, and long-term wins from life on the land.


Herman’s Tough Kraut Fixes: Common Challenges Taking Hardwood Cuttings in Winter

This Troubleshooting and FAQ section covers the most common issues gardeners face when they propagate hardwood cuttings in winter, especially in Mediterranean and drought-prone climates.


Q: My hardwood cuttings rotted. What went wrong?

A: Too much moisture and poor drainage. Hardwood cuttings need air as much as water. Use free-draining soil and avoid waterlogged spots.


Q: Nothing happened for months. Are my cuttings dead?

A: Not necessarily. Dormant cuttings often do nothing until spring warmth triggers root growth. Scratch the bark lightly. Green means alive.


Q: Why did my direct-planted cuttings die in summer?

A: That’s normal. Summer stress is the main filter. Expect losses. Plant more cuttings than you need and let survival select the strongest.


Q: Are pots always better than planting out?

A: Better for survival, yes. Better for resilience, not always. Pots allow monitoring and watering. Direct planting produces tougher plants with zero care.


Q: Should I use rooting hormone?

A: Optional. For fig, willow, elderberry, and currants, it’s unnecessary. Healthy dormant wood already contains everything needed to root.


Q: Can I take hardwood cuttings too early or too late?

A: Yes. Too early means sap flow hasn’t slowed. Too late means buds may break before roots form. Mid-winter dormancy is the sweet spot.


Recommended Books & Resources

Books

  • American Horticultural Society Plant Propagation by Alan Toogood

    A clear, visual reference that breaks down propagation methods plant by plant. Ideal when you want confirmation that a hardwood cutting should work before you prune.

  • RHS Handbook: Propagation Techniques by Royal Horticultural Society

    A practical bench-side guide with wide species coverage and proven techniques. Especially useful when experimenting beyond figs and elderberries.

  • The Complete Book of Plant Propagation by Jim Arbury

    A deeper look at why different propagation methods succeed or fail. Best suited for gardeners who want to adapt techniques to their own climate and soil.

  • Propagating Plants: How to Grow Plants for Free by DK

    A deeper look at why different propagation methods succeed or fail. Best suited for gardeners who want to adapt techniques to their own climate and soil.

Resources

  • Gardena ErgoLine Spading Fork (Article No. 17013-20)

    A sturdy digging fork we use to gently loosen soil and create clean planting holes for hardwood cuttings without compacting the ground. The four strong tines make it easy to push cuttings into place, especially when direct-planting willow or fig in winter, and the long handle keeps the work comfortable during repetitive planting.

  • FELCO F-2 Pruning Shears

    Clean cuts matter for rooting success. A durable, serviceable tool that produces precise cuts season after season without crushing dormant wood.

  • Hormex Rooting Powder #8 (0.8% IBA)

    Optional insurance for tougher hardwood species. Not required for fig or willow, but helpful when pushing success rates on less forgiving cuttings.

  • Tough Kraut Resources

    Our living library of field-tested tools, books, and propagation essentials we actually use on our land. If it’s listed there, it’s earned its place through real results, not hype.

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